An Edible Road Trip visits Nunavut

Inspiration for [FEAST: An Edible Road Trip] arose when, in casually asking friends what they consider to be typically Canadian foods, few answers were given beyond Kraft Dinner, poutine, Nanaimo Bars, and butter tarts. While fully enamoured with the latter three, we knew there was so much more to it, and were intrigued that Canadian cuisine seemed so lacking in identity. We decided to combine our passions for writing, travelling, and eating into a unique adventure, one that will take us across the country in search of stories about Canadian food, with an aim of showing its unique character and proving just how much we have to celebrate.

So went an email I received earlier this year from Lindsay Anderson and Dana VanVeller, Vancouver-based writers, adventurers, wanderlusts, and co-creators of FEAST: An Edible Road Trip. It just so happened that we crossed paths due to our passions (studying food, working with food, and – most importantly – eating food), and ever since then I’ve been following these lovely ladies on their coast-to-coast-to-coast journey.

Notice the addition of the third “coast?” That’s right. They made it to Nunavut. Anyone who has struggled with getting here will recognize this as a massive accomplishment. Fist bump.

Not only does Nunavut offer unique cultures and landscapes, it is unparalleled in one thing: country food. While frozen, raw, fermented meat may not appeal to everyone, Lindsay and Dana jumped in with both kamiik. They tasted their fair share of caribou, Arctic char, and maaktaq, and other northern delicacies. They also collected some fantastic stories along the way.

All of their Nunaposts have been beautifully compiled on their website, but we’ve provided links and summaries below. All photos courtesy of FEAST: An Edible Road Trip.

Deeper Into the Tundra: Hello Nunavut!

This inaugural post sums up one of my favourite things: people’s first impressions of the territory. The complete shock of stepping onto the frozen tarmac. The joy of dancing to The Jerry Cans. The blended juxtaposition between northern and southern food worlds.

Ancient Sewing Needles, Caribou Stomachs & Inuit Artifacts

Through conversations with a woman named Monica, this post explores historical and modern Inuit culture as well as connection to food and the land. I could absolutely relate to this line: “Meeting Monica and learning about her culture reaffirmed this suffocating realization that despite my enthusiasm for camping, I would absolutely die in the wilderness.” Amen.

A “Welcome Kablunaaq” Dinner

Lindsay and Dana earned their blog name through this post along, because they had an absolute FEAST! Mikku, pipsi, turbot, char, muskox, caribou, and the list goes on. Not sure what some of those things are? Read their post to find out! This post also touches on the high cost of groceries in Nunavut – something Nunavummiut know all too well about.

Kivalliq Arctic Foods

There are a few ways to get country food in Nunavut: catch it, receive it, or buy it. This post explores the latter, somewhat contentious option by visiting Rankin Inlet’s commercial processing plant, Kivalliq Arctic Foods.

Rankin Inlet Healing Facility & a Caribou Concoction

When visiting the Rankin Inlet Healing Facility, Lindsay and Dana learn about the important role that country food plays in Inuit diets, and how it contributes to well-being and betterment. They also try some frozen caribou dipped in fermented whale blubber.

Lighting the Qulliq

This post is centered around an important and beautiful cultural practice: lighting the qulliq. Annie, an Elder in Rankin Inlet, also shares stories of her youth.

Our First Taste of Maqtaaq

They say you never forget your first…taste of maaktaq. I sure do (hello, I was in the company of Prince Edward and Countess Sophie). I’m sure Lindsay and Dana won’t forget theirs, as they introduced maaktaq to their palates by way of a “big ol’ chunk uh’ narwhal.” But they didn’t stop there; they also had whale sausage, local tea, and tundra berry muffins. Quite the balanced meal!

Titaaq & Kelly

This final post introduces you two people. The first person is Titaaq, an Inuk hunter. When learning about hunting and harvesting, Lindsay and Dana are rightly impressed by his resilience (“when he’s skinning the animals HE DOESN’T WEAR GLOVES“), which is something I was also in awe of during my seal hunting trip to the floe edge. The second person is Kelly, a trained chef and local caterer, who could probably contribute some excellent recipes to our nunafoodie series.

We think Lindsay and Dana did a splendid job showing off what Nunavut has to offer. Do you? If so, show these two incredible ladies from FEAST: An Edible Road Trip some Nunalove by checking them out on Twitter, Instagram, and Facebook.